30 October 2015

Technique: Integrated Button Bands


When I introduced you to Marianne cardigan on Monday, I realized I hadn't talked in-depth about one of my favorite cardigan techniques: Integrated Button Bands.

I picked up the basics of this technique from Elizabeth Zimmerman's Baby Surprise Jacket. In that pattern she has you work the button bands on both sides of the jacket, since you might be knitting it before the baby is born and would not know the sex of the child. Once the baby is born you'd be able to sew the buttons onto the jacket on the "proper" side.

When I thought about the technique for an adult sweater, I realized that doing both button holes meant that you would know exactly where to sew the buttons on when you were finishing the garment: over the holes, which would line them up perfectly with the buttonholes!

Since small buttons and lots of them are my preference, basic "baby" button holes using yo, k2tog work perfectly. Garter Stitch works nicely as the base, since the fabric is springy and tightens up just enough to prevent the button band from sagging.

Patterns I've published that use this technique include:
Have you ever used this technique? Let me know what you think in the comments below.

Thanks for stopping by, and happy knitting!
xoxo,

Quadrille c'est fini! #FOFriday #knitscope



from kathleendames's Collection on Katch https://ktch.tv/3yCz
via IFTTT

Walk in riverside park #nycfallfoliage quick scope (#FOFriday chat later today)



from kathleendames's Collection on Katch https://ktch.tv/3yt2
via IFTTT

28 October 2015

Pattern: Colonel Brandon


Colonel Brandon on Ravelry (no account necessary)

Available in Jane Austen Knits 2015 $14.99 (print and instant dowload)


Manly yet sensitive, in the end Colonel Brandon is the perfect match for Marianne Dashwood. And his sweater embodies their story: Hartshorn Cable is the central motif (Marianne is dosed with hartshorn after she encounters the feckless Willoughby in town), Waves of Honey highlight the sweet reward of Marianne’s hand after all the colonel suffers, and the Alternating Cables embody the dichotomy of Colonel Brandon’s persona: romantic hero with his poor Eliza versus wearer of flannel waistcoats in Marianne’s initial impression. The seamless hybrid yoke allows the cables to wrap up around and square off the shoulders, while garter stitch creates a crisp collar, cuffs, and hem.

What you'll love about knitting Colonel Brandon:

  • Seamless design worked in the round means you are always looking at the front of your work and can better keep track of all those cables
  • The cable patterns are aligned, which means you work the "action" rounds all together - it's easier to keep track of what you're doing this way
  • The hybrid yoke cleverly shapes the sweater to the body while still showing off those wonderful cables

What you'll love about wearing Colonel Brandon:

  • Garter stitch collar/cuffs/hem provide a clean finish
  • Hybrid yoke creates lovely square shoulders
  • Cables tell the story of Colonel Brandon's romantic life

Size/Finished Measurements

38 1/4 (41 1/4, 45 1/4, 48 1/2, 54 1/4, 58 1/4)" bust/chest circumference. Sweater shown measures 38 1/4".

Materials

  • Brooklyn Tweed Shelter (100% wool; 140 yd [128 m]/1 3/4 oz [50 g]): birdbook (medium green), 10 (11, 12, 14, 15, 17) skeins.
  • US6 (4 mm): 16" and 29" circular (cir) and set of doublepointed (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
  • Stitch markers
  • Removable markers
  • Cable needle
  • Stitch holders or waste yarn
  • Tapestry needle

Gauge

18 sts and 25 rnds = 4" in St st; Hartshorn Cable chart = 3" wide; 16 sts of Double Moss Stitch chart = 4" wide; Alternating Cable chart = 1 1/4" wide; 12 sts of Wave of Honey chart = 2 1/4" wide.

Skills Needed

  • casting on
  • binding off
  • knitting
  • purling
  • increasing
  • decreasing
  • cabling (I highly recommend learning how to cable without a cable needle)
  • following cable charts

Thanks!

Many thanks to the entire staff at Jane Austen Knits/Interweave/F + W Media

Purchase your copy of Jane Austen Knits 2015 today at your favorite LYS or directly from Interweave.

Thanks for stopping by, and happy knitting!
xoxo,

26 October 2015

Pattern: Marianne cardigan


Marianne cardigan on Ravelry

Available in Jane Austen Knits 2015 $14.99 (print and instant dowload)


“Mrs. Jennings was perfectly convinced of it. It would be an excellent match, for Colonel Brandon was rich and Marianne Dashwood was handsome.”
—Jane Austen, Sense and Sensibility, Vol. 1, Ch. 8

And so begins the extraordinary fate of Miss Marianne Dashwood. What better attire for our heroine than an Empire-waist cardigan with an intriguing cabled lace skirt and picot edging around the mitered neckline. Stockinette-stitch panels at the side make waist shaping easy, and the garter-stitch hem, cuffs, and integrated button band give a clean finish, allowing the picots to draw attention upward to your pretty face.

The Lace Lozenges pattern uses a novel technique with a cable needle to create the lovely ovals, which remind me of cameos. This is one of the few times I bother actually using a cable needle - generally I find you move along more quickly working cable without a cable needle (or spare DPN). But in this instance, I was unable to find a way to work the Lace Lozenges safely without a cable needle.

As this design was partially inspired by Regency era gowns, the bust area is not as modest as you might prefer. You can wear something underneath (like the model here) that makes up the difference for you, or you could choose to work the front stitches for a few more rows to raise the neckline before holding them aside. Knitter's choice!



What you'll love about knitting Marianne cardigan:

  • Exciting-to-work skirt pattern makes clever use of a cable needle to create pretty cameo shapes
  • Integrated garter stitch button band (matches cuffs and hem) means you'll have minimal finishing work to do - seam the sleeves, weave the underarms, then it's time to go on a button hunt!
  • Pretty picot bindoff at the neckline is fun to work and hearkens back to lace trim on Regency gowns


What you'll love about wearing Marianne cardigan:

  • Waist-shaping in side panels creates a figure-flattering empire shape that you'll love to show off
  • Squared neckline with picots brings the attention up to your face (where it belongs!)
  • Fingering-weight yarn and 3/4-sleeves make this a cardigan you'll reach for year-round


Finished Measurements

30 3/4 (34 3/4, 38 3/4, 42 3/4, 46 3/4)" bust circumference buttoned. Cardigan shown measures 34 3/4".

Materials

Madelinetosh Dandelion (90% superwash Merino wool, 10% linen; 325 yd [297 m]/31/4 oz [90 g]): glazed pecan, 3 (4, 5, 5, 6) skeins.
Needles: Size 4 (3.5 mm): 32" circular (cir). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
Markers (m)
Removable m
Cable needle (cn)
Stitch holders or waste yarn
Tapestry needle
7 (7, 8, 8, 8) 1/2" buttons.

Gauge 

24 sts and 32 rows = 4" in St st; 18 sts of cable panel chart = 21/2" wide.

Skills Needed

  • casting on
  • binding off
  • knitting
  • purling
  • increasing
  • decreasing
  • working with a cable needle
  • following chart for Lace Lozenges

If you've knit up one of my other designs, you may recognize some techniques I like to use. If not, here are some links to help you get started:

  • Two-tail Long-tail Cast-on - this method also sets you up nicely for alternating skeins of hand-dyed yarn to ensure well-blended fabric
  • M1 increases (for sleeves)
  • Integrated button bands (hmm, I need to do a post on this for you - they are worked at the same time as the rest of the sweater body but in garter stitch, and I recommend working buttonholes at the beginning and end of the row so you'll know exactly where to sew on your buttons)
  • Centered Double Decreases, sometimes known as sl2k1p2sso or s2kp2 for short - I love how this decrease does away with two stitches at once and stands straight and slender; this decrease is used for the waist shaping and the raglan decreases in the yoke, which is the perfect spot for such delicate lines

Come back on Wednesday to meet Colonel Brandon!

Thanks!

Many thanks to the entire staff at Jane Austen Knits/Interweave/F + W Media

Purchase your copy of Jane Austen Knits 2015 today at your favorite LYS or directly from Interweave.

Thanks for stopping by, and happy knitting!
xoxo,

23 October 2015

quick + purly: 5 women's worsted pullovers

After a fabulous weekend at Rhinebeck, I have pullovers on the brain! Here are five seamless, 1-color pullovers I found for you this week.



  1. Vistoire by Emily Ringelman $6 USD 
    flattering fit and great central cable
  2. Tweedy Dan by Olivia Pelaez $6 USD 
    such a nice collection of cables
  3. Dallas by Amy Miller $6 USD 
    lovely tunic with special cables
  4. Brassica Pullover by Elizabeth Smith $6 USD 
    lovely, subtle details
  5. Such a Winter's Day by Heidi Kirrmaier $6.80 USD
    love the funnel neck and all-over stitch pattern
All images from patterns' Ravelry pages. No copyright infringement intended. I just want to share the love!

And one from me!
An Aran for Anne by Kathleen Dames $7 USD
story-telling cables plus a flattering fit

Do you have a favorite pullover to recommend? Let us know in the comments below :)

Thanks for stopping by, and happy knitting!
xoxo,